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четки и гребени
#1
Публикувано: 21 August 2007 - 02:34 PM
аз по принцип използвам дървен или пластмасов гребен и мека кръгла четка,но те разресват само горния дълъг косъм на къчето,и изобщо немогат да се справят със заплетения гъст и пухкав подкосъм който от доста време се мъча да отстраня oleeee а след къпането сякаш се заплете още повече ouu а рита хич необича да я скубя и неска ме нала на няколко пъти s) а много искам да и оправя най-сетне козината,защото някак нестои никак добре с тия гепли n)
иначе наерих в един каталог някакъв гребен със метални заточени зъби за разплитане на таквиз работи,ама се чудя дали той няма да накъса и да увреди косъма? bl) а немога нито да я подстрижа,нито да урежа геплите-лае и посяга да хапе,мята се и и зобщо непозволява нито машинки нито ножици близо до нея oleeee
та ако може някой с дългокосместо куче да ме посъветва за някакъв вид четка или гребен,който е за такиз неща,много ще съм му благодарна worthy victoryVVV worthy
#2
Публикувано: 21 August 2007 - 02:39 PM
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"Някои хора са като 1 стотинка - двулицеви и не струват нищо!! "
MASTERPIECE OF BALKAN-NEWFOUNDLAND KENNEL
#3
Публикувано: 21 August 2007 - 03:21 PM
#5
Публикувано: 21 August 2007 - 10:25 PM
"Някои хора са като 1 стотинка - двулицеви и не струват нищо!! "
MASTERPIECE OF BALKAN-NEWFOUNDLAND KENNEL
#6
Публикувано: 21 August 2007 - 11:16 PM
#7
Публикувано: 22 August 2007 - 12:55 PM
С това нещо вадиш подкосъма. Останалото с гребен или пак с тази четка.
Добра работа ще ти свърши такъв нож:
ако кучето е много сплъстено и не може да се разреше без да го боли,
освен това работа би ти свършил и гребен за подкосъм:
Но никой хубав гребен не може да ти помогне ако кучето ти те хапе докато го решеш - с това ще трябва да се бориш другояче, но все пак можеш да му помогнеш като го решеш след къпане на влажно...
#8
Публикувано: 22 August 2007 - 01:21 PM
"Някои хора са като 1 стотинка - двулицеви и не струват нищо!! "
MASTERPIECE OF BALKAN-NEWFOUNDLAND KENNEL
#9
Публикувано: 22 August 2007 - 01:27 PM
DE-MATTING TECHNIQUES
by Barbara Bird
Dematting skill is something that is developed with practice over time, much like scissoring and styling. The following techniques are offered as a means of developing your skill in dematting. The more you utilize these techniques, the greater speed you will develop at achieving your result, with the least possible discomfort to the pet.
DIVIDE AND CONQUER - MAT SPLITTING
Splitting matted fur into smaller pieces is to dematting as holding the shears properly is to scissoring. It is your fundamental key to success. By slicing your matted area lengthwise into smaller pieces, you have a much better chance of untangling the hair. There is also less discomfort to the animal to have a small pieces of hair worked on rather than a large mass. One of the best tools for splitting mats is a plastic letter opener that looks like a business card, with a single tooth and a blade in the corner.
Mat splitting requires care and paying attention. Because you need to use a very sharp tool, there is always danger of slicing something besides hair. Watch out for edges of ears, folds of skin, and the tips of tails. Scissors can be used with great caution, ALWAYS working away from the skin. Never cut into mats with scissors pointing inwards to the dog.
Another way of dividing and conquering matting is to shorten the matted coat first. Using your rough out shears (an older, less valuable shears) roughly scissor off some of the length. This is especially effective on poodle or poodle mix coats. Oftentimes scissored off mats will brush apart after bathing on these coats. Just try it!
PICK, DON'T PULL
Most matted hair will break apart more easily if you use a picking action, rather than trying to pull a comb or rake through a hunk of hair. Correct picking technique is very similar to the technique we use to comb up hair in preparation to scissoring. You are lifting the tool in and out of the hair, not pulling through. Pick from the ends of the hair toward the skin, not from the skin out. Relax your wrist and get a sort of whipping action going. The objective of picking is to loosen the hair. Later you will get more separation with a comb.
ATTACK FROM THE SIDE
Once you have an area divided by splitting and loosened by picking, you can finish by combing through. I recommend you use a coarse comb and work from one side of a piece of matted hair rather than a front and center approach. If possible, hold the piece of hair in one hand and comb with the other. Holding the hair with your fingers between the part being combed and the skin will reduce discomfort to the animal. Release your hold to get the last bit of combing to the skin. Hopefully your picking loosened the hair from the skin.
SLIPPING N SLIDING
Products which make the hair slippery will ease the detangling efforts. There are plenty of different products to try. One of the most slippery products is Cowboy Magic Detangler and Shine. Remoisturizers and thick conditioners work well used full strength. Less bad mats can be teased apart with aid from diluted spray-in conditioners. Some groomers do much of their dematting in the tub on a wet pet.
Grooming powders and even corn starch can lubricate the hair shaft for increased ease in tangle removing. Wear a paper mask if you choose this route, so you don't inhale a lot of powder as you work.
Silicone products such as The Stuff, Quicker Slicker, AbraCaDaBra and Best Shot coat each hair shaft with slick silicones. Silicone works best when it is dried onto the coat. It requires a leap of faith to trust that dematting will easier after the coat is bathed and dried.
BLOW IT OUT - THE USE OF AIR
Air flow can be used as an aid in untangling hair, either from a High Velocity dryer or a traditional stand/arm dryer. The action of the air serves to shake loose some of the hair that is woven together to form a tangle. In the case of more coarsely textured hair, much detangling can be done with air flow and splitting of larger areas. On finer coats, the use of air flow from an arm dryer while fluff drying will speed up dematting.
BATHING - THE USE OF WATER
Many groomers were trained with the admonition to never bathe a matted coat. It was cautioned that bathing would cause the matted fur to tighten its grip. This is true if the matted fur is not combed out after the coat is dried. Cleaning and conditioning a matted coat can often help to release the grip of tangles, and some products, such as the silicones mentioned above actually work best when dried into the coat. Avoid rubbing products into tangled hair, as rubbing can worsen the situation. Squeeze products through the coat and pat dry with towels. It is recommended that you do some mat splitting before the bath, thus insuring that your bathing will be thorough, products will be distributed, and hair thoroughly saturated. Big clumps can be difficult to penetrate.
TOOLS AND PRODUCTS
Find the tools and products that work best for you. For the purpose of splitting large matted areas, look for tools that have replacement blades. These tools are only as effective as they are sharp. Find out if you prefer the rake style or comb style mat tool. A V shaped comb is designed for picking technique. Try one. Look for a wide tooth comb or coarse comb. A teflon coated coarse-medium comb is great on small dogs such as Bichon, and a larger wooden-handled poodle comb is good for larger dogs. Many tools are coming out with ergonomic handles so that dematting need not be as stressful to the hands and wrists.
A pair of blending shears is also helpful for dematting. Blenders have one notched tooth blade and one straight blade. They can be used to break up mats or to cut out stubborn knots with less danger of slicing the dog or leaving a huge hole in the coat.
Detangling products are another personal choice. Basically these products do two things, they remove static electricity that causes the hair to cling together and they make the hair more slippery so that it will slide apart more easily with less breakage. Experiment with small quantities of several products until you find what you like. In trying out new products, always follow manufacturers instructions explicitly to give a product the best trial.
#10
Публикувано: 23 August 2007 - 02:26 PM
аз си мислех именно за този нож или както там се кезва от 2рата картинка r) четоз в един каталог че бил за такива неща и неска ще ходя да го търся тоя магазин да видя за какво става въпрос и да се надявам че ще помогне r) иначе Ритито много обича да я вчесвам,ама ако я ускубя по-силничко ме джавка милата l)
#11
Публикувано: 29 August 2007 - 03:09 PM
#12
Публикувано: 29 August 2007 - 07:21 PM
иначе и на мен ми ида да обръсна рита,ама ми е жал за хубавата козина-такава хубава грива си има w)
#14
Публикувано: 14 September 2007 - 02:30 PM
Явно трябва да се опита, за да се знае какво е най-удобно и бързо за работа.
#15
Публикувано: 14 September 2007 - 04:57 PM
иначе тамън стигнах до едно добро ниво на оправяне на положението с Ритината козина и се наложи няколко дни да съм постоянно по работа и изобщо нямах време за вчесване и сега пак е някакъв ужас oleeee ида ми да drink да не говорим пък Лина в какво състояние й е козината след като си я прибрахме от хотела bash ама с нея беше по-лесно,направо я ускубахме и козината си падна сама b)
#17
Публикувано: 01 April 2008 - 05:01 PM
Определено е по-удобно, ако гребена е метален или тип гребло, държи се по-лесно и ресането става по лесно.
Тип гребло, само, че не със въртящи се зъбци, а нормални.. не можах да намеря картинка.. Тези с въртящите не стават за жалост, с тяхното въртене косъма изобщо не се разресва.. Те са подходящи за кучета с по-дълга козина.
С този с обикновената дръжка трябва да се натиска много за да проникне в козината, което е неудобно.
Четката най-обикновена, за обръщане на козината.. особено при изложбени кучета.
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